East European Shepherd - dog characteristics, training, raising puppies and diet

History of the breed

The East European Shepherd, the history of the breed which began in the 20s of the twentieth century, was bred in our country. At this time, breeding work began to develop a new breed of dogs in the Red Star army kennel.

The basis was taken from a shepherd breed - the German Shepherd.

In those years, the country needed service dogs for use in the army, police, for guarding camps where convicts were kept, and national economic facilities. The breeding scientists were faced with the task of improving the qualities of the German Shepherd. It was necessary to breed a new breed, more hardy, capable of serving in any climatic conditions. However, breeding work was carried out slowly due to insufficient funding and a small number of German shepherds.

In 1945, trophy German Shepherd dogs arrived in the country, and selection work to develop a new breed was resumed. The resulting new breed differed in quality from its ancestor from Germany. It was a more resilient, larger and heavier dog, with a restrained and balanced character.

Cynologists called the new breed the East European Shepherd. The number of individuals increased from year to year. In 1964, a breed standard was established, and in 1976 a new standard with additions was adopted. However, at that time, the East European Shepherd was considered a variety of the German Shepherd.

In everyday life, this breed was still called the German Shepherd.

The dog has become popular both for keeping at home and for use for business purposes.

In the 90s of the twentieth century, the popularity of the East European Shepherd decreased. Many dog breeders began to crossbreed their pets with their German relatives. However, the puppies were born with all the characteristics of the domestic breed, and crossing only improved their performance qualities.

In 1993, international canine organizations recognized the German Shepherd as a separate breed. However, the Eastern European breed never received international recognition. Such dogs were not accepted into clubs and were deprived of the opportunity to participate in exhibitions. The number of dogs was declining. But thanks to the efforts of domestic dog breeders, the breed was preserved. Active work was carried out on breeding East European Shepherds. Today, this is one of the popular dog breeds.

Her excellent service qualities are appreciated by dog breeders.

Currently, the breed is recognized by the International Canine Union and the International Union of Kennel Clubs. The breed is not recognized by the International Canine Federation.

Health and hereditary diseases

It is difficult to talk about the health of this breed. According to Soviet canine reference books, only two ailments are typical for VEO, such as:

Gastric volvulus. The reason is the increased elasticity of the ligaments that support the organs. Because of this, during physical activity, the intestinal loop or stomach overlaps. The first symptom is swelling of the peritoneum, after which the disease develops very quickly. Due to the deprivation of circulatory organs, necrosis occurs, which leads to the death of the animal.
Arthritis. This is a joint disease. Develops as a result of delayed bone tissue recovery or degenerative changes associated with age.

In the first years after the collapse of the USSR, monopolists dishonestly used only their own dogs for selection, which caused damage to the breed. Such omissions in the development of the VEO breed led to an expansion of the list of characteristic diseases. It began to include:

Rickets. Develops more often at an early age. Characterized by irreversible curvature of the limbs.
Enteritis. The disease belongs to the acute viral category. The dog is vaccinated against it while still a puppy.
Dysplasia. This pathology is associated with age. Its cause is considered to be untimely renewal of articular tissue.

Appearance of the dog

This is a strong, massive dog with a muscular, elongated body. Height at the withers for males is 66–76 cm, for females - 62–72 cm. The weight of males is 35–60 kg, the weight of females is 30–50 kg. Females are less muscular than males, but do not look fragile.

East European Shepherd puppies grow rapidly.

The weight of a month-old cub is 3–5 kg, and its height is 22–25 cm. Every month, the puppy grows by approximately 2–3 cm and gains 5 kg in weight, reaching the dimensions of an adult animal by the age of one year:

The head is powerful and long, wedge-shaped. The length of the head is about 40% of the height at the withers. The transition from the muzzle to the forehead is noticeable, but not very pronounced. The earlobes and lips are black. The ears are triangular and erect. The eyes are almond-shaped, dark in color.
Teeth. Scissor bite. Number of teeth - 42.
Torso. The neck is strong and powerful, with pronounced muscles. The back is straight. The chest is wide, the stomach is tucked. The tail is straight, hanging below the hock joint.
Limbs. The front legs are angled and the hind legs are straight. The hock joints are clearly visible. The paws are round in shape. Extra (dewclaw) fingers must be removed. The dog moves at a trot, pushing off with its hind legs.
The coat is hard, of medium length with a thick undercoat. The fur on the thighs and forearms is longer than on the rest of the body.
Color. The breed standard allows for a dark mask against a light gray or pale yellow coat. A dark color on the back, going down to the sides and hips (scoop color), is also acceptable. This coat color is the most common. Less desirable, but acceptable, is the color in the form of zones of gray and red color. The description of the breed also allows for the completely black color of the East European Shepherd, but this coat color is very rare.

VEO standard

Before buying a pet, you should study the breed standard in order to purchase a purebred representative. This is especially true for those who plan to participate in exhibitions and competitions. It is recommended to contact a kennel club, because German Shepherd puppies are very similar to Eastern European ones. The standard describes the following characteristics of the breed:

The head is large, has the shape of a regular wedge, and is proportional in overall dimensions. The frontal part is wide, rounded, smoothly blending into the muzzle. The cheekbones are muscular and rounded. When viewed from the side, the bridge of the nose is parallel to the extended line of the forehead.
The lips are dry and thick, fitting tightly to the muzzle and not drooping.
The teeth are straight, white, and tightly set. According to the standard, only a complete set of incisors and canines is allowed - 42 teeth. Bite without gap, scissor bite.
The nose and eyes are set slantingly and have an oval shape. The eyelids are dry, dense, completely covering the whites. The outer corner is raised towards the ear.
The ears are medium, triangular in shape, only erect ears are allowed. Set wide apart, can't be too big.
The limbs are muscular, proportional, and sinewy in the lower part. The front legs are parallel with the elbows pressed to the chest. The hips are noticeably elongated, the back is strong.
The tail is saber-shaped, reaching to the hocks or below. In its natural state it trots low or between its hind legs. When working, it rises to the spine or higher.

Breed defects

In dog behavior, cowardice, lethargy, unbridled aggression and indifference are considered vices. Minor faults are shortcomings in the external characteristics of the animal. More pronounced deviations, due to which the East European Shepherd loses its working qualities, are considered disqualifying defects:

weak ligamentous apparatus;
loose, rough or light constitution;
weak muscles;
light eye color;
brown or red tan on saddle coat;
curvature of the limbs;
weakness or deformation of the ears;
corkscrew tail;
unbalanced movements;
lack of teeth.

Astigmatism in children
6 Popular Myths About Sugar
10 habits of older people that are difficult for young people to understand

Possible exterior defects

There are deviations in appearance and character that prevent the dog from performing official functions. The breed standard considers such shortcomings as defects:

fragile physique, underdeveloped muscles;
weak tendons;
lack of teeth;
light eye color;
long wool;
crooked paws;
weak ears;
curled tail in the form of a ring or corkscrew;
poor coordination of movements;
timid behavior;
overweight, obesity;
scoop-type color with brown or bright red spots.

There are disqualifying faults for which the East European Shepherd is not allowed to be exhibited. Such a dog is excluded from further breeding. The following are considered disqualifying defects:

undescended testicles into the scrotum (cryptorchidism) in males;
malocclusion;
incorrect coat color;
light earlobes;
short tail;
cowardly or aggressive behavior.

Photos and price of puppies

The cost of an East European Shepherd puppy reaches 15-30 thousand rubles.

Choosing a VEO puppy should be done responsibly; before choosing, it is recommended to decide on the purpose of purchasing a pet. If the goal is a pet, you have dreamed of a big wonderful dog since childhood, you probably won’t find a better candidate than the East European Shepherd. In such a case, the lack of a pedigree will not frighten you; specimens from an unplanned litter will do.

The East European Shepherd is a protector and watchman. The working qualities of a dog at two months of age are not visible, but are clear from the qualities of the parents. If the parents have service experience and the dogs have passed an exam in protective guard service, then there is a high chance that the offspring will become a worthy watchman and protector.

Choosing a future father, a sire of worthy offspring destined to receive the highest exhibition awards, is not an easy task.

Differences between the East European Shepherd and the German

Until now, many people who are far from cynology confuse these breeds. However, the East European Shepherd has significant differences. These breeds have much in common, but the long-term work of breeders has made the Eastern European dog different from its German ancestor.

The Eastern Shepherd is larger and more powerful.

Unlike the German Shepherd, it has a straight back and a wider chest. The East European Shepherd has a more varied coat color. Both breeds of dogs move at a trot, but the movements of the East European Shepherd are more expansive. She moves by pushing off with her hind legs.

Breeds also have different personalities. The German Shepherd is more playful, energetic and lively, while the Eastern Shepherd is a serious, sedate and balanced dog. “European” is a universal dog that is suitable for both business purposes and home keeping. The German Shepherd is more of a human companion; its service qualities are less pronounced.

Typical diseases and their prevention

VEOs are distinguished by good health and live long. But like any other breed, they have their own diseases:

gastric volvulus;
joint disease.

To avoid deadly diseases that can be picked up on the street, you need to engage in timely immunization.

Only high-quality vaccines will protect your dog from the most common disease - rabies. At the first signs of illness (the dog is losing weight, a hot and dry nose, etc.), you should immediately contact a veterinarian. This breed has a calm character, but excessive passivity should also be alarming. Affects the animal's health and diet, as well as living conditions.

Similar article: History of origin and description of the White Swiss Shepherd

Character of the East European Shepherd

The character of the East European Shepherd is calm and balanced. In a normal situation, the dog does not show aggression. But its guarding and guarding qualities are highly developed; when threatened, the dog rushes to the defense of its owner or home with a swift jump. This is an excellent bodyguard with an instant reaction to danger. The characteristics of the breed indicate the dog’s high intelligence and good trainability:

We can say about the breed that it is obedient, does not seek to dominate and obeys its owner well. A shepherd dog rarely shows disobedience. Even a novice dog lover can cope with raising and training an East European Shepherd.
If a shepherd dog has lived surrounded by kittens since childhood, then it will not be aggressive towards cats. Sometimes the dog even takes smaller animals under protection and care. But this is only if the puppy grows up with them from an early age.
The East European Shepherd is a friendly dog. But this quality manifests itself only to the owner and family members. This breed treats strangers with distrust. In order for a dog to react adequately to strangers, it must be trained from childhood.
The East European Shepherd gets along well with children. It can be started in a house where there is a small child.
As children, puppies of this breed are very playful. As adult dogs, they may still show interest in their childhood toys. Therefore, they should not be thrown away, even when the dog has grown up, otherwise it may begin to chew upholstered furniture and bite various objects.
The characteristics of the breed consider excessive timidity or aggressiveness of a dog to be a fault. Such qualities must be eliminated by training.

All the excellent qualities of this breed (compliance, poise, devotion to the owner, high learning abilities) are the result of long work by breeders. However, these qualities must be reinforced by training, otherwise the dog’s character will not correspond to the breed standard.

Character of VEO

The species has clearly expressed protective reactions. They are extremely distrustful of strangers. Otherwise they are balanced and self-confident. They are friendly and obedient towards their owners. VEO's defensive reaction is clearly expressed. The Shepherd is a service dog; the dog has an innate caution and unpretentiousness.

We suggest you read: How to name a boy's German Shepherd

Regarding temperament, VEO:

Balanced.
Confident in yourself.
No outsiders allowed.

The East European Shepherd shows the world the best qualities of a dog. Strength, natural beauty, loyalty, a sense of duty - everything is fully expressed in the East European Shepherd Dog, or VEO, bred in the 30s in the USSR. Puppies are clumsy, but adorable, they grow quickly, and with proper care for your tiny dog, you will soon find a friend and protector.

Unpretentiousness and excellent service qualities are combined in the dog with nobility, intelligence and loyalty. She is full of inner dignity and confidence (not without reason) in her own abilities, she will become an excellent bodyguard and a full member of the family. The East European Shepherd gets along well with children and will keep company in outdoor games.

Having decided to get an Oriental, be aware: you are taking a serious service dog, with specially instilled security qualities. Since childhood, the East European Shepherd has been undergoing an OKD course with a professional trainer. A dog is not suitable for living in an apartment; a country house with a yard is an ideal option. Dog owners are supposed to remember: the “Eastern” cannot be kept on a chain forever, at the risk of raising a dangerous and uncontrollable dog.

VEO becomes very attached to its owner. The dog is harmoniously built and has improved anatomy, which primarily affects the dog’s working qualities.

The Shepherd has excellent hearing and scent, exhibits a distrustful character and is capable of rapid acclimatization. “Vostochnik” does not lose his or her indicative reaction and soberly assesses a person’s capabilities.

VEOs accept training so easily and quickly that a novice dog breeder, even a teenager, can easily cope with dog training. VEO is strongly attached to his owner and senses his mood. Being a formidable dog for strangers, the “Eastern” takes care of and protects the owner’s family.

A valuable quality of a dog is considered to be its remarkable intelligence and intelligence; the dog perfectly distinguishes between a training area and a working situation, where it is quite capable of independently making a decision to protect the owner without receiving commands.

Dog care

Ideally, the East European Shepherd should be kept in a country house. The dog should not be put on a chain - this can ruin his character. It is better if the dog lives free-range. She will make an excellent guard for the home. Don't be afraid that your pet will run away; this loyal dog is not prone to running away from home.

The breed is also suitable for keeping in a city apartment.

You just need to remember that this is a large dog, and the room for keeping it should be spacious enough. If the dog lives in an apartment, then it will need to be walked twice a day for 40–60 minutes.

This breed of dog is unpretentious, keeping and caring for it is not difficult:

The coat needs to be combed 2 times a week. In summer and autumn the dog sheds. During such periods, brushing should be done daily. Shedding lasts 2 weeks and is intense, and a lot of hair falls out. You need to comb the fur with a metal comb, and during the molting period - with a special slicker brush.
You need to wash your dog no more than 2 times a year using shampoo. Shampoos with protein are beneficial for this breed.
If the dog does not grind its claws down on its own, they need to be trimmed with a special nail clipper.
Ears need to be cleaned of wax once every 2 weeks. All East European Shepherd puppies are born with drooping ears. At 2–3 months the ears stand up. If this does not happen, you should take the puppy to the vet. Ears may not rise due to damage to the cartilage or due to a lack of microelements in the diet. Then the tips of the ears are glued to each other with a plaster above the head. Ears usually droop when teeth change, but by the age of one year, all East European Shepherds have straight ears. The puppy should not be stroked on the head - this can damage the ear cartilage.
Periodically you need to clean your teeth of tartar.
If discharge appears from the eyes, it should be removed with cotton wool soaked in water.
It is necessary to periodically treat the fur against fleas, this is especially necessary in May, June and October.
Deworm your pet.

The puppy must be taught all hygiene procedures from early childhood. It's better to do this in the form of a game. Then the adult dog will not be afraid of these procedures.

What to feed

Avid dog lovers and experienced dog handlers know the saying: “The breed enters through the mouth.” The external data or exterior of the VEO puppy, the pet’s health, growth and full development depend on proper feeding. Feeding the puppy is consistent with the baby's growth rate.

A puppy settling into a new living space, getting used to its owner, experiences stress. In the initial days, it is better to adhere to the feeding regime that was practiced by the breeders running the nursery. Even food and feed should be selected with an eye to feeding in the nursery. As a rule, breeders are happy to advise the owner on emerging issues.

The puppy’s diet depends on the age periods associated with the energy costs of the growing body. There are two known types of feeding: natural products and ready-made factory feeds. In the first case, the owners will need to ensure that many foods are included in the diet and that the diet remains balanced.

The one-month-old puppy VEO needs to be fed 6 times a day.
The VEO puppy, 2 months old, receives 5 meals a day.
At three months of age, the puppy is fed 4 times.
A six-month-old puppy is taught to eat 2 meals a day.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with: Dwarf rabbit: care and maintenance at home, video and photos

If the puppy is active, he is trained or kept in harsh conditions (outdoors in an enclosure, even in winter), the need for food increases due to increased energy costs. But the diet of the “Eastern” is supposed to be balanced, able to replace the loss of energy after exercise and exercise. From now on, nutritious food is available to all breeds.

It is possible to feed a mature East European Shepherd with dry food or prefer a diet with products of natural origin. It is better to feed an adult dog twice a day.

Regardless of the method you choose, monitor and supplement your dog's diet with vitamins and mineral supplements. If your work schedule leaves little free time, it is better to prefer a diet based on dry food, selected according to the dog’s structural features. The health of your pet depends on proper nutrition. Representatives of the species are predisposed to diseases:

allergy;
joint disease;
If you eat improperly, stomach problems often occur.

To protect your dog from diseases, introduce the correct daily routine, with obligatory long walks and physical activity. Exclude from your diet:

Sweets. It is better not to give your pet any chocolates, sweets or other goodies. Give your dog a piece of cheese as a treat, or buy special sweets for dogs at the pet store.
Fat meat. Meat containing excess fat is difficult to digest. It is better to replace fatty pork with veal or boiled beef.

Training an East European Shepherd

It is necessary to train the East European Shepherd, as this breed is intended for service. Without training, a dog can become uncontrollable and aggressive, losing all valuable service qualities. It must be remembered that this is a large and strong breed. Keeping an adult dog on a leash is not always possible even for a physically strong person. Therefore, it is important to start training puppies from an early age.

Raising an East European Shepherd puppy is a responsible undertaking. It is necessary that all family members adhere to the same views. A clear rule must be established about what is allowed and what is prohibited for a small pet. There must be consistency in all actions during training. You need to praise or scold the puppy immediately after he performs this or that action, and not after a while, otherwise the puppy will not understand what the praise or blame is for.

When training, you should not yell at or hit your pet.

East European Shepherds respond better to rewards than to punishment. It is important to establish rapport with the dog from the very beginning. This breed usually tries to please its owner. Shepherd training rules:

It is necessary to encourage the pet to communicate with the outside world and with other puppies, but at the same time it must always and everywhere listen to the owner’s commands. This breed is distrustful of strangers; puppies can bark at passers-by. It is necessary to wean them from such actions from childhood.
Training must be carried out regularly and daily. It is better to engage with the puppy in a playful way and devote 15 minutes to this every day. Longer training is useless, since small puppies are not yet able to concentrate for a long time.
During training, puppies need to be rewarded with their favorite treat - this is how they develop a reflex to follow the command.
From 3 months, the puppy needs to be taught obedience during walks. There is a lot of extraneous noise on the street; against this background, the pet must learn to hear and follow the owner’s commands.
At 4 months, you can start teaching your puppy to overcome barriers, search for hidden things by smell, and perform the fetch command.
From the age of 5 months, you can develop security and service qualities in a puppy: teach you to guard certain things, detain an intruder. It is not difficult to teach a dog to be a good guard; service qualities are inherent in this breed at the genetic level.
At the age of six months, the puppy can begin learning to walk on the boom. This breed is not afraid of heights, and it is not difficult for it to follow such commands.
The East European Shepherd needs to exercise its hind legs, otherwise it will have a weak push with its hind legs when running. It is useful to attach different weights to the harness - this not only trains the hind legs, but also strengthens the back. Such training is carried out only with adult dogs; for puppies it will be excessive physical activity.

We can say that training an East European Shepherd is not particularly difficult, since this breed is smart, obedient and remembers commands well.

Recommend your posts to the LJ editors

Fresh posts are content that is being created by users right now. Posts are included in this block, regardless of the popularity of their authors or other indicators. The main thing to get into this block is content relevant to the topic.

How to feed an East European Shepherd?

When an East European Shepherd puppy appears in the house, you need to ask the breeders about the feeding regime and diet. At first, you should not suddenly change your diet. In the future, the composition of the diet depends on what the puppy will eat.

If the baby is fed with ready-made food, it will already contain all the necessary substances and elements. In this case, you just need to choose high-quality, high-class food. But if the pet eats natural food, then you need to organize feeding the puppy so that he receives with food everything he needs for full growth. Particular attention should be paid to proper nutrition before the age of 1 year, because the height, weight and quality of the dog’s coat depends on this. The following rules should be followed:

The puppy should be fed 25-30 minutes after the walk. After eating, he should remain at rest for about 2 hours. You cannot play with the puppy or train him immediately after feeding.
Puppies aged 2–3 months are fed 4–5 times a day. Half of the diet should be dairy products (cottage cheese and milk). It is imperative to give your puppy meat; it should make up 1/5 of the diet. You can give your baby thick vegetable soups, cereal dishes, and eggs. Vitamin supplements must be present in food.
Puppies aged 3–4 months are fed 4 times a day. In the diet, the amount of meat food is gradually increased and dairy food is reduced. Once a week you can give fish instead of meat. Meat can be replaced with offal (liver, tripe) 2–3 times a week. In this case, the portion of food should be doubled. By-products must be boiled before use.
At the age of 4–5 months, feeding is carried out 3–4 times a day. Dairy products and meat are given in equal proportions. You can add raw and boiled vegetables to your diet: zucchini, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin, cucumbers, carrots. Beets and pumpkin must be boiled first, and carrots should be given raw. Carrots are grated and vegetable oil is added for better absorption of nutrients. In winter, crushed cloves of garlic can be given - this is a good remedy for the prevention of worms, and in spring, young nettle leaves, scalded with boiling water, can be added to food. Puppies should not be given cabbage: it causes increased gas formation in the intestines.
At the age of 5–6 months, the feeding regimen remains the same. The share of meat products in the diet is gradually increasing. On a day, the puppy should eat about 600 g of meat, 300 g of cottage cheese, 300 g of cereals and 300 g of vegetables. If the animal does not have diarrhea, then you can add 1 glass of milk to the diet. You can give a boiled egg 3-4 times a week.
At 6–8 months, puppies are fed 2–3 times a day. The composition of the diet remains almost the same, only the amount of meat increases to 800 g.
At 8-12 years old, the puppy is gradually transferred to the feeding regime of an adult dog. Food is given 2 times a day. The composition of the diet should be as follows: 900 g of meat, 300 g of cottage cheese, 100–300 g of cereal porridge, 300 g of vegetables. You can give a chicken or quail egg 3-4 times a week.

East European Shepherds should not be fed pork or lamb. You should not give them bones - this can injure their stomach. The animal should always have access to clean water.

Instructions for raising an East European Shepherd

INSTRUCTIONS FOR GROWING CLUB "VEO-SERVICE DOG" EAST EUROPEAN SHEPHERD DOG Compiled by Yulia Aleksandrovna Mukhina

FEEDING Having bought a one-month-old puppy, you need to remember that the transition at this age from one home to another, separation from the mother should be as painless as possible for him, so the housing and feeding system should not change in the first days.

To do this, it is advisable to find out from the breeder how the puppy was fed, and stick to this for several days. A puppy aged from one to two months should be fed 6 times a day, from 2 to 4 months - 5 times a day, from 4 to 8 months - 4 times a day, from 8 months up to 1 year - 3 times a day. Then gradually, by the age of one and a half years, they switch to two meals a day, although it is still advisable to feed the dog light food (kefir or fruit) during the day.

APPROXIMATE DIET FOR A MONTH OLD PUPPY 8 HOURS - porridge with milk (with milk for no more than 3 months) with the addition of butter. Cereals - buckwheat and rice, well boiled. You can add the yolk of a boiled egg. 11 HOURS - finely chopped meat with grated carrots and 1/3 teaspoon of melted butter or sour cream. 14 HOURS - vegetables stewed in water, with the addition of butter and finely chopped meat (raw) at the end of the stewing, plus finely chopped parsley and dill. 17 O'clock - milk porridge (as at 8 o'clock). 20 HOURS - cottage cheese can be mixed with eggs, kefir, fresh yogurt. 23 HOURS - large raw bone with meat. The puppy must work hard to gnaw the meat from the bone - this is useful for the proper formation of the dental system and the development of the jaws. Milk porridge only up to 3 months. Next, porridge in water with the addition of Exi canned meat or finely chopped raw meat. Twice a day, mineral supplements should be added to fermented milk foods: Irish Kal, or Polydex, Drukal. With the addition of seaweed or blue-green algae. Regardless of the mineral supplement, be sure to give the puppy vitamin D 2 in oil according to the schedule. The most proven fertilizer is called “Caltsidi”. After 3 months, the puppy’s diet should consist of raw meat, fish, vegetables, and cottage cheese. Milk feedings no more than 2 times a day, after 4 months no more than 1 time a day. On the day when fish is given, we replace milk feedings with others. If the puppy does not eat food or eats reluctantly, then it is necessary to either reduce the portions or check the puppy for the presence of worms. It is not advisable to reduce the number of feedings. The puppy should be well-fed, but not overfed, as the load on the intestines aggravates it, causing regurgitation and sagging of the back. The food should be as thick as sour cream or a little thinner. From 1 to 2 months, the puppy eats approximately 1 glass at a time. From 2 to 3 months - up to 1.5. From 3 to 6 - from 0.75 l. From 6 months up to 1 year - from 1 l. You should always feed your puppy at the same time and in the same place. - Food should be lukewarm. In an adult dog it is at room temperature. For dry food (if there is not enough time to prepare natural products or their unavailability) for older dogs, we recommend the following foods: Nutro, Hills, Belcando, Pro Plan, Ekanuba, Royal Canin, Bosch " When feeding dry food, give it slightly moistened, and allow the dog to drink water after 1 hour. Water should be fresh and accessible to the dog. Do not mix dry food with other food. If you give dry food, then nothing more! Insufficient exposure to fresh air and lack of exercise reduce appetite and lead to illness (rickets). To prevent rickets, we recommend giving vitamin D 2 in oil, starting from 1 drop per day and increasing the norm to 4 in the first month. Next, increase 3 - 5 - 7, and bring to 10 drops. 10 days on and 10 days off. Raw meat is the main building material of bones and muscles. It gives the puppy growth, strength and health. The meat should not be fatty. The puppy should be given beef cut into pieces. As they grow, the pieces should increase in size. It is very beneficial for a puppy to eat it, tearing it off a large, raw bone.

PRODUCTS 2 - 4 months 4 - 8 months 8 months. — 1 year More than a year MEAT 150-200 gr. per day 200-400 gr. per day 400 gr. per day 400-500 grams per day Cottage cheese 100 grams 200-300 grams per day 300-500 grams per day

MILK 500g - 1 liter 500g Optional Milk is only for cooking porridge, milk is not allowed to drink - it is replaced with kefir. We give sea fish to dogs older than 2 months, slightly boiled. We cut off the sharp bones from the ridge, remove the fins, etc., and the ridge without bones must be cut with a hatchet and fed to the dog along with the fish itself. To replace meat with fish, it must be given 1.5 times more. It is prohibited to give river fish. Pollock is also not allowed. It is advisable to give sea fish - gurnard, cod, etc. Vegetables (carrots and cabbage from 1 month), others from 2 months - add to meat meals or make thick cabbage soup. In spring, it is necessary to add nettle, scalded with boiling water and finely chopped, to meat feedings. Greens - parsley, dill, dandelions - it is advisable to give them constantly. It is very useful to teach your puppy to eat fruits and berries in the summer. In winter - dried fruits, separately figs, nuts, raisins, dried apricots. At the age of 1 to 3 months, calcined cottage cheese should be given. Add 2 tablespoons of 10% calcium chloride to 1 liter of boiling milk, filter the curdled cottage cheese without squeezing and give it to the puppy, pour out the whey. This cottage cheese is rich in calcium salts, which are very necessary for the puppy during the period of intensive growth. Actually, cottage cheese is useful not only for puppies, but also for adult dogs, just like kefir and yogurt. ALL PRODUCTS MUST BE FRESH! At the age of 1 to 2 months, you can give 1 egg every two days, then no more than 1-2 times a week. Small puppies can only be given the yolk of a boiled egg. It is not recommended to give sweets; it is better to use unsweetened cookies, crackers, crackers, and cheese for encouragement. It is better to give bread in the form of gray crackers, 50 - 100 grams per day after 6 months. Flour food - vermicelli, semolina, peas, beans are not given at all. We barely add salt to the food. Bones are given after food, and not instead of it, and only sugar, large or cartilaginous bones. Only raw bones, boiled bones and tubular bones are prohibited. Offal - heart, lung, tripe, liver, brain, give boiled after 6 months. DO NOT FEED THE PUPPY AT THE TABLE, DO NOT GIVE SMOKED MEATS, PORK, DO NOT ADD SPICES, PEPPER TO THE FOOD! THERE SHOULD BE FRESH WATER CONSTANTLY. Do not allow your puppy to pick up food from the floor, and do not place treats on the floor yourself. The puppy should be fed from a stand located at chest level. You cannot accustom your puppy to tasty morsels, this will distort his appetite. With age, such a dog will only eat what it likes. It is necessary to feed the puppy after a walk. After an intense walk - no earlier than an hour.

KEEPING A PUPPY Before purchasing a puppy, you need to choose a place to keep it. The place should not be on a walkway and should be sufficiently lit. The place reserved for the puppy should not be located near heating appliances. It is prohibited to allocate space in the bathroom, near the door, or in a draft. The bedding should be hard, thick enough with a removable, lightweight pillowcase, which should be regularly removed, shaken, and washed if necessary. You should have 2-3 pillowcases for the mattress. Under no circumstances should you LOCK your puppy in a dark room or block it with anything, reducing the area of its movement. This leads, as a rule, to rickets and weakening of the limbs, and general underdevelopment. You cannot LEAD a puppy - the consequences of keeping it on a leash are the same. These shortcomings are difficult to eliminate, and sometimes they are not eliminated at all. DO NOT train your puppy to jump on the sofa, bed, or chair. A puppy cannot jump like a kitten. Jumping off the sofa, he can damage his limbs, even breaking them, since his ligaments are still weak. In addition, you should not let your puppy do things that later, when he grows up, will be prohibited. DO NOT ALLOW your dog to crawl under low furniture - this leads to improper formation of the limbs and makes the back sag. It is IMPOSSIBLE to use a harness with weights - in this case, your dog will hopelessly “go to the front”, that is, it will not have the correct “high-front” posture. It is better to use a regular harness when driving your dog (at least up to 6 months). As training, you should not rush with a bicycle (from 6-9 months), mountain climbing (the same) and towing a skier (not earlier than 1.5 years). The beginning of these exercises depends on the type of constitution (build) of the dog. It is best to use long, productive walks and trotting. DO NOT ALLOW children to pick up the puppy - unskillful hands may drop it. DO NOT pick up a puppy by its FRONT FEET or its skin - it is not a cat. The PUPPY is lifted with both hands - the puppy is placed on one palm, and supported under the chest with the other. DO NOT STROKE the puppy's HEAD or ears - he gets used to putting them on his head and this contributes to their incorrect positioning. DO NOT pull rags or a leash out of your puppy's teeth - you can break his teeth or ruin his bite. DO NOT leave dangling wires, remove shoes, newspapers, books, in general, at first it is better to remove everything that the puppy can reach. When he grows up, he won't take everything.

A PUPPY SHOULD NOT BE ALONE FOR LONG TIME! The puppy cannot stand loneliness, he is very sad and begins to have fun on his own - play pranks. His prank can go far and bring you a lot of trouble. Leave toys for the puppy - a ball, a bone (sugar) with leftover meat - this will keep him occupied for a long time and promotes the correct formation of the jaws. Do not give your puppy old shoes, otherwise he will play and spoil the new ones. If the puppy takes something that is not allowed, persistently take the item away from him, saying “no” or “ugh” and give him a toy in return.

PUPPY TOILET Washing a puppy is not recommended, and is prohibited before 3 months! If necessary, you can bathe the puppy with baby soap or egg shampoo no more than once every 3 months. You can use special dog shampoos for problem skin, or dry shampoo. The soap should be thoroughly rinsed off and the fur wiped dry. The water temperature is 36-40 degrees C. We prefer, if necessary, to clean the puppies with a comb with cotton wool moistened with an aqueous solution of vodka and vinegar (half water with vodka plus a tablespoon of vinegar). You MUST brush the puppy thoroughly every day with a comb, then with a plastic brush and a cloth cloth (against the grain, then along the grain). This massages the skin and removes dirt and dust from the coat. Lay the puppy on its back and examine its tummy and paws. If you examine your puppy daily, he will get used to it and will be comfortable with your touch. If there are no fleas in the apartment, then the puppy will not have them either - the dog does not breed fleas, it collects them. If a puppy has fleas, we recommend treating it with Frontline or Advantage. A small puppy, when kept in an apartment until about 3 or 4 months of age, gets dirty. You cannot beat the puppy for this, poke his face into a puddle, or shout at him. To develop the habit of defecating outside in your puppy, immediately after eating or sleeping, take him outside for 10-15 minutes and reward him after he recovers. You can say “Do things”, “Go for a walk”.

WALKING THE PUPPY Walking the puppy is related to its vaccination schedule - you cannot walk until the first two vaccinations. You can only carry the puppy in your arms “SUNBANNING” for 15 minutes to one hour in the summer. In winter, in your bosom - let him get used to the noise of cars, the voices of passers-by, etc. Do not let him down to the ground and do not allow him to interact with animals! We recommend "NOBIVAK" or "HEXADOG" vaccines. "NOBIVAK" is given according to the following scheme: 1. 4-valent - at 8-9 weeks; 2. 5-valent (with leptospirosis) - at 11-12 weeks (revaccination); After quarantine for 10-14 days you can go outside. 3. 7-valent (with rabies) - at 6-7 months, after changing teeth. And then every other year, every year. Vaccinate only a healthy animal that has been treated in advance (10 days) against worms (Milbemax, DRONTAL plus, KANI-QUANTEL). The temperature is measured 2 days before vaccination and should not be higher than 39o C. We begin to walk, gradually increasing the walking time (from 10-15 minutes). In the summer you can start walking more. Walking is allowed only after quarantine (10-15 days after vaccination). In the air, the puppy should move all the time and not sit on the cold ground. It is recommended to carry the puppy down the stairs in your arms for up to 3 months; going down the stairs before this period is harmful - fragile legs may become crooked, since the front legs cannot withstand the weight of the body. You can teach your puppy to climb stairs after 2 months - this is a very useful exercise, which, however, cannot be overused. ABUSE of jumping at an early age contributes to straightening of the hind legs and weakening of the back. The puppy must be walked on a leash, which the puppy is taught to use from the age of 2 months. The puppy will get used to a light and soft collar or, better yet, a harness right away. At first, the puppy is led on a leash so that he does not feel forced; sometimes, instead of a leash, you can use a light cord, which the puppy does not feel at all. Carefully, without jerking, we move the puppy away from dangerous places. It is necessary to ensure that the puppy does not swallow paper or other dangerous objects. If the puppy greedily eats soil or engages in caprophagia, you need to consult a veterinarian, and he will prescribe the necessary nutrition for your baby (containing sulfur or special yeast...). By 3-4 months, during a walk you need to move up to 3-4 kilometers, but you need to gradually accustom the puppy to long walks. If you give too much stress, the puppy will get tired, lose appetite, and grow poorly. When walking with your puppy on the street, gradually teach him not to be afraid of cars, to treat passers-by calmly, without tugging or “fucking” him. It is necessary to increase the pace if the puppy reacts violently to unfamiliar objects. Gradually moving from quiet streets to busier ones. The puppy needs free walking without a leash and playing with peers. To do this, look for a safe place away from the road so that the puppy, after playing, does not accidentally run out onto the road. DO NOT ALLOW your puppy to be near unfamiliar dogs; if a puppy is bitten by an unfamiliar dog (which is not uncommon), the puppy may remember this for a long time and become cowardly. You need to introduce the puppy carefully and be sure that the adult dog is friendly towards babies. Often the puppy is frightened by unfamiliar objects. In this case, you need to gently call him, stroke him and calmly bring him to the frightening object and let him smell it, so that the puppy is convinced that there is nothing scary or dangerous. You CANNOT allow a puppy to chase cats, this can lead to big troubles - you can lose the dog. It is necessary to walk the puppy on a leash several times past distracting objects (cats, birds, children). We must cultivate a calm attitude towards other animals. From the age of 3 months, it is useful for a puppy to swim in the sea, river, or clean reservoir, but under no circumstances should the puppy be dragged there by force or thrown into the water - he will develop an aversion to water forever. You can attract the puppy with a stick, a toy, or get into the water yourself. After leaving the water, you need to give the puppy time to run around and dry off. From 6 months you can take your puppy on a ski trip, but do not try to ride him and measure the time of the walk with his age. It is COMPLETELY UNACCEPTABLE to force a puppy to run after a car, motorcycle or swim after a boat - the same applies to an adult dog.

RAISING A PUPPY When raising a puppy, its age and mental characteristics must be taken into account. All puppies are different - some are assertive and some are brave. There are more timid ones. You can’t demand too much from your baby at once. Balance your requirements for it and do not overload your pet’s fragile nervous system. The East European Shepherd is a versatile dog. But to train her correctly, an experienced instructor is needed. For East European Shepherds, training courses are mandatory: OKD (General Training Course) and ZKS (Protective Guard Service). There are many similar courses and you can additionally train your dog using them - these are UGS, ZGS, VD, IPO, Obidiens, Schutzhund. You can also train your dog in special courses - Search Service, Towing a Skier, Agility, Big (Russian) Ring, Poiskovo - Rescue Service. All these special courses and sports are very interesting and spectacular. You can start training your puppy on the playground in special puppy groups from 4-5 months.

dog training Proper maintenance is the beginning of education. Raising a puppy is about instilling in him the necessary skills that will help him in further training. By the time the puppy can be trained at the UDP (Training Ground) or with a private instructor, he should have developed some disciplinary skills: training to a name, calling, sitting down, basic fetching. These skills must be practiced in the game, without the use of violence. For each task, the puppy must be rewarded with treats and affection. You cannot demand a lot of endurance and the ability to exercise for long periods of time from a puppy. He will quickly get tired and lose interest. It is necessary to use only normative commands: “Sit”, “Lie down”, “Stand”, “Come to me”, “Place”, “Apport”, etc. In everyday life, if normative compliance with requirements is not required, use other words: “Go here,” “Wait.”

RULES - Feeding at certain hours, no handouts from the table, treats only for a completed task (reception) and only from family members. — The same person should work at home and train the puppy on the playground. - Under no circumstances should you hit a puppy. Any beating develops cowardice. At the age of 6-8 months, in case of an attempt to bite the owner or a family member, it is necessary to harshly give the command “fu” and it is necessary to pat him by the withers. It is not advisable to hit a puppy. — If you need to punish a puppy, then only at the moment he commits an undesirable action and not necessarily through physical force, sometimes his voice and his intonation are enough. Punishing a puppy some time after committing an offense only brings harm, since he does not understand why he is being punished. - Do not allow children to tease the puppy and cause him pain: the puppy sees the owner as a protector. Having matured, the puppy can remember the offenders’ pranks. — Do not set the puppy on strangers. Aggression in small puppies is a sign of fear and uncertainty. A dog with a healthy psyche at a young age is curious, sociable and friendly or calm and reserved, but not angry. Attempts at aggression can be stopped by distracting the puppy with a toy, fetch, or a command. — The first thing you need to teach a puppy is a nickname. When giving food, call the puppy by name, adding the command “Come to me.” The “Come to me” command should not be given in a threatening tone or called to the puppy for punishment. This is the most desirable command for a dog - be happy when the dog comes to you, praise it and give it a treat. If the puppy does not obey, distract him or try to run away and give the command again. Don't run after the puppy and don't catch it - this is a mistake... - You can't punish a puppy for running away or not coming. Maybe he didn’t have enough fun or saw his friend and wants to play with him. Whenever he comes up, pet him, praise him, then the puppy will trust you. You will have to start all over again if you hit the puppy. — When walking, you need to have a treat that is given to the puppy with each call, but you don’t need to do this too often (applies to all commands) - several times a day is enough. If you are getting ready to go home, the puppy should be ready for your call, he has played enough, is tired and is ready to fulfill your command “come to me”, going home. - From about 2 to 3 months, you should accustom the puppy to the “Fu” command, preventing unwanted actions, but you should remember that you cannot “fuck” the puppy over trifles, he will get used to it and will not respond to the command. Use non-standard commands - “no”, “spit”. The “Fu” command is strict: you should persistently, but without rudeness, achieve its implementation. — From 3 to 4 months, the puppy should be accustomed to the commands “Sit” and “Lie down.” Do not require a lot of patience until the puppy is ready for it. — From an early age, you need to teach the puppy to run after a stick and bring it back. When throwing the ball, we command “Apport”, and when picking it up, “Give”. - From 4 months onwards, it’s a good idea to come across a ditch or stream and force the puppy to jump over it: jump with the puppy, but do not overuse jumping - this is a heavy load on the ligaments and back. By 10 months, the puppy should jump over a 100-120 cm barrier. — From the age of 6 months, accustom your dog to a muzzle - this is necessary for a large dog, for travel in transport, exhibitions and training. Place a treat in the muzzle and try to quickly put it on. At first, it is enough to put it on for 1-2 minutes. In the future, before going outside, you should put on a muzzle and gradually delay the removal time. Give a treat after removing the muzzle. - For walks, you should use a long leash - 6-8 meters. - At first, the commands “come to me”, “fetch”, “walk” should be done on a leash, using a soft pull. — FIRST COMMAND, THEN SOFT IMPACT OF THE LEASH

SOME DISEASES - RICKETS - the disease develops due to depletion of bones in calcium salts. The appearance of rickets is promoted by poor nutrition and lack of exercise in the fresh air. At the first signs of rickets (curvature of the limbs), measures must be immediately taken to eliminate it with the help of a veterinarian. Regime, proper nutrition, raw meat, mineral supplements + D2, sun, in winter - quartz, these are the main methods of treatment. We also use sea salt baths for our dogs (we buy white, unscented salt at the pharmacy.)

Plague is the most common, acute contagious disease of puppies and young dogs. Infection occurs both through direct contact of sick puppies with healthy ones, and through various objects. From the moment of infection to the appearance of the first signs of the disease, it takes from a day to 2-3 weeks. Main signs: increase in body temperature to 40.5 ° C (Normal temperature 38.5-39 ° C), purulent discharge from the nose and eyes, periodically excited state, damage to the digestive and respiratory organs, and sometimes the nervous system (tic, paralysis). Signs of distemper may be subtle, so puppies must be monitored very carefully. A large number of puppies die from distemper every year, so dogs must be vaccinated. If you suspect a disease, consult a doctor.

ENTERITIS - Acute infectious disease of the intestines. Affects dogs of all ages. Signs: endless vomiting, possible diarrhea, stomach pain. The first day the temperature may rise, then it will drop, and cardiac activity will decline (cold dog). TREATMENT - See a doctor. And before the doctor: Cerucal (against vomiting), for pain, Novocain with a small amount of water. In general, a dehydrated dog should be given little and frequent water. 0.5 no-shpa, 0.5 analgin (twice a day). Levomycetin or sulgin 0.5 tablets - 3 times a day. Intestopan or enteroseptol - 1/4 tablet 3 times a day. If vomiting does not stop, administer glucose 20-40 mg. Subcutaneously. Herbs: chamomile, St. John's wort - steam and drink 0.5 cups per day to the dog. DO NOT FEED THE DOG! After the vomiting and diarrhea stop (5-7 days), we begin to feed: squeeze out the boiled rice and rolled oats through 2 layers of gauze and feed the liquid. Feed every 2 hours a tablespoon (bringing up to two). Then we simply knead the rice, start giving cottage cheese, yogurt, boiled meat (scrolled through a meat grinder). We give this in small portions with rice water. Gradually we move on to pieces of boiled meat, then raw. Do not rush to fatten your dog after severe emaciation. The stomach after enteritis is very weak, you can “break it” again. The dog will return to its form thanks to your patience and rules.

FEATURES OF DISPLAYING EASTERN EUROPEAN SHEPHERD DOG AT EXHIBITIONS.

(Handling.) At the exhibition, your “Eastern Dog” will be best shown by a professional handler, who will also prepare him for this important event. But if you want to show your dog yourself or are preparing him for an exhibition, remember the following: From the first step, as soon as you entered the rig, took your place in accordance with the order and increasing exhibit numbers, follow all the actions of the expert. Sometimes the first glance cast at a dog determines the overall impression and result. Keep in mind that there is no dog without flaws in nature. Your task in the ring is to hide these shortcomings as much as possible and emphasize the advantages. The expert should see your dog in the ring standing in the following position: - proud posture, alert position of the head and raised ears, tension directly emanating from the dog; - straight, strictly parallel forelimbs, standing perpendicular to the ground (neither narrow nor wide); - body: the top line is sloping, the dog is “high forward”, the tail is directed downwards in a saber shape or simply “hanging”. There should be no noticeable “over-tracking”, creases or “domedness” on the topline. — Hind limbs: The limb closest to the expert is set back, but so that the metatarsus is perpendicular to the ground, the limb closest to you and farthest from the expert is placed under the dog. Well-built dogs stand in this position on their own even during a walk, when interesting objects appear or when unusual sounds occur. — Throughout the entire examination (visual and manual), the dog should stand upright, alert and not show signs of fear or aggression. After all, both a timid dog with its head down and a nervous dog that howls or, worse, bites, will receive lower marks, or even disqualification (for biting or aggression). The owner must place the dog with the left side towards the expert so that he himself is to the right of the dog and does not block the dog during any movements. The ring should be held in the left hand. It is very impressive when a dog, placed in a stance by the handler, stands for a long time, and the handler stands aside. This is achieved by training in ring training (handling) from the very childhood of the dog.

Examination in any ring usually begins with the procedure of showing teeth. The teeth of East European Shepherds are usually shown by the handler, but sometimes an expert can independently conduct such an examination. Not all dogs and handlers are usually ready for this, but when performing inter-examination or showing dogs at serious exhibitions, you need to be prepared for this and achieve an ideal calm attitude from the dog towards this procedure. The same applies to testing for the presence of testes in male dogs - you should hold the dog with your left hand under the stomach away from you, and the expert checks for the presence of testes in your dog. — These manipulations require preliminary preparation... — dogs are taught to show their teeth from a young age for at least 2 minutes a day — (you stroke the dog’s face, repeating the command “show teeth” and gradually expose your lips). The expert checks both the completeness of the dental system and the bite. — During an examination of the teeth by an expert, do not lean towards the dog - you will only get in the way. Your task is to control the dog's behavior, repeat the command and praise your pet. — When moving, your shepherd should be confident, pull on the leash, and move around the ring with enthusiasm. The dog must demonstrate beautiful movements at a walk, a sweeping trot and freeze in the stance at the right time. This is achieved through the art of handling. At the trot, do not throw your dog off the pace and take turns carefully. When moving, adapt to the pace of the dog’s movement at which it will look most impressive. Show your dog every second of the time you are in the ring. — While moving, the expert examines the dog in three positions: — strictly in front, strictly behind — (when the dog moves away from the expert), and also from the side, when the dog moves in a straight line or in a circle. In order for the expert to evaluate the dog’s movements correctly, the handler must ensure that when moving back and forth, the dog runs strictly in a straight line, and when moving in a circle, he must ensure that the dog is always between you and the expert. - So, most experts first suggest that the handler move the dog away from him and towards him, and then in a circle (counterclockwise), the dog is always located to the left or in front (when moving in a circle). — Some experts ask to guide the dog along a triangle. In this case, it is necessary to lead the dog strictly in a straight line, away from the expert, then calmly turning to the left, in a straight line in front of the expert, then again to the left - towards the expert. When moving in a circle, set the dog to the required pace of movement - a wide, free trot. Make sure that she does not lower her head and does not wander into an amble or gallop. — Be prepared to stop at the expert’s command and put the dog in a stance. — Make sure that your dog does not rest his nose on the tail of the dog in front, keep your distance. Do not drag your pet along with you, otherwise he will become stubborn and will probably not seem the most beautiful. - “One look at the expert, another at the dog.” Don’t look around, because sometimes in 10-15 minutes, or even 5, you need to show the dog in all its glory. - If your “Eastern” has a soft back, push him under the chest or scratch behind the front legs under the chest, and he will be more collected. In line or in front of the ring, do not drag your dog along with you; let him rest in a quiet place. — For exhibitions, a thin collar or ring to match the dog’s color with a thin, inconspicuous leash is used. Your clothing should be in contrast with the dog's color, highlighting its advantages. — The dog must be prepared for the exhibition. Nails are trimmed 2 weeks before the show so that the dog feels confident with trimmed nails. Don't wash the dog! You can comb it with dry shampoo or wipe it with a solution (vodka + water + vinegar). Do not feed the dog a lot; you should not bring in empty bitches. The dog should be walked with free intestines.

TAKE WITH YOU: — A collar, a regular leash, a show collar or a show collar with a leash; — Vet passport or certificate, receipt for payment for the exhibition, a copy of the pedigree and diplomas of the dog (if any) with titles and workers; — Dog treats, water, bowl, food, cloth, bedding, safety pin; — Necessary medications and a bandage with cotton wool (just in case); — Umbrella, camera, folding chair, pen, video camera;

Health of the East European Shepherd and choosing a puppy

Owners are often interested in the question of how long Eastern Shepherds live. Dogs of this breed cannot be classified as long-livers: their life expectancy is about 12–13 years. Unfortunately, from the German Shepherd they inherited a predisposition to certain hereditary diseases:

diabetes;
pyoderma;
gastric volvulus;
cataract;
retinal atrophy;
joint dysplasia;
diseases of the spine;
short stature due to lack of hormones.

To avoid gastric volvulus, you need to monitor your dog's diet. The dog should not be allowed to make sudden movements or jumps after eating. One of the symptoms of gastric volvulus is bloating; in this case, the dog needs urgent surgery, as this condition threatens the animal’s life.

Joint diseases in East European Shepherds can be hereditary, however, the development of dysplasia can be facilitated by the puppy's excess weight and excessive physical activity, so the pet should not be overfed.

During training, you need to avoid excessive stress on the bones, since puppy joints are still weak.

Dogs suffering from hormonal dwarfism are rejected from breeding. This disease is difficult to detect in small puppies. It often happens that both parents have normal growth, but the puppy later shows all the signs of growth hormone deficiency. This means that the puppy's parents were carriers of the defective gene. Further breeding of this line is considered inappropriate.

To avoid purchasing a pet with genetic diseases, you need to know how to choose the right puppy.

Features of feeding

When raising a puppy, you need to monitor its weight and never overfeed it. Appetite is great, but constantly adding tidbits, increasing the amount of food just because “well, he asks for it!” will do you a disservice. The puppy's bones and ligaments are still developing and are not able to support much weight. The result is sick “sagging” metacarpus, early diseases of the joints of the limbs, and heart problems. And this is not a complete list, but overeating is to blame.

A large dog like VEO needs to build up good muscle mass. Therefore, the diet must certainly contain a source of protein: meat and fish. You should not give bones; cartilage and tendons are better suited instead. The puppy can and should chew them in order to clean his teeth and train his jaw muscles.

Choosing a puppy

How to choose an East European Shepherd puppy? You need to pay attention to a few points:

Breeders do not always report possible hereditary diseases of the puppy. Therefore, if you choose a pet, you need to pay attention to the puppy’s pedigree and the health of its parents. The puppy must be examined before sale.
Breeders must keep the puppy in constant contact with people, otherwise he may become wild and shy. When meeting its future owner, the puppy should not bite or act too shy. Normally, puppies are playful and friendly.
The price of an East European Shepherd puppy is 20,000 – 45,000 rubles.

Nutrition composition

The dog's diet is moderately varied, abundance is excluded. The diet is composed to ensure that there are enough necessary elements. The quantity is determined according to special tables compiled for each breed. The tables accurately determine the required volume of a single serving, taking into account age. A detailed conversation will focus on the quality and composition of food.

It is important to understand the principles and needs of a growing organism, to understand what is desirable to achieve from a puppy of this breed, and what is best avoided. During the dog's growth period, the diet contains the necessary amount of protein to increase muscle mass, fiber to normalize the gastrointestinal tract, carbohydrates to replenish energy, vitamins, minerals (under the supervision of a veterinarian to normalize mineral metabolism) for full development and immunity.

Based on the rule, the puppy’s diet is compiled. If the base is a broth made from boiled meat, cartilage, tendons, then cereals and vegetables are added. Meat – beef, veal, horse meat, lean lamb. Pork should not be given. A couple of times a week, meat is replaced with sea fish. Poultry is added to the pet's diet occasionally, but bird bones, due to their structural features, injure the animal, so they are removed in advance.

Other variations in meat variety complement the basic diet. Moreover, it is worth choosing pieces that contain ligaments, tendons, and cartilage tissue - during the puppy’s growth period, they form a necessary part of the diet, dogs love them at any age. Directly muscle tissue, i.e. meat should also be present. The required amount of meat is calculated according to the nutrition tables of a dog of a given breed.

We suggest you read: Australian Shepherd Aussie - breed characteristics and training

Meat for a dog is the predominant, but not the only element of the diet. To saturate the body with glucose and fiber, the puppy needs vegetables and cereals. Cereals are taken from among those available, preferably “coarse”, capable of nourishing the body and cleansing the intestines. This:

barley;
oatmeal;
millet;
buckwheat

Rice, rolled oats, poltavka, chives are added to the diet. Pearl barley is not included in the diet. Until the dog is two months old, the cereal is crushed. Hercules is fed not boiled, but with kefir, after soaking the flakes for half an hour.

It is useful to cook vegetable soups for your puppy with the addition of meat or sour cream. Cabbage, beets, onions, and carrots will do. It is better to feed carrots raw, grated, and seasoned with sour cream or butter. Potatoes and bread are not recommended, they will do more harm!

It is advisable to add greens to the puppy’s diet - parsley, dill, and other herbs. Scalded nettle or crushed nettle is a good addition to your diet.

The diet includes eggs and dairy products. Please note: milk is absorbed by the dog’s body until a certain age. Then the ability is lost and becomes the cause of digestive disorders.

Fermented milk products are useful at any age; cottage cheese, for example, should be present in the diet regularly.

Do you want to please your pet? Please note: spicy, salty, smoked, fried, sweet foods are prohibited. A healthy state will bring him much more joy. Dogs often enjoy eating fruits and berries. It is better to give foods one at a time, evening feeding - with meat, a feeling of fullness will allow him to sleep more peacefully.

Before choosing an East European Shepherd puppy, weigh the pros and cons again. Do you have enough resources (financial and time) to care for and raise your dog? Are you ready to go for long walks every day in any weather? Who will the dog stay with if you have to go on vacation or a business trip?

If you still haven't given up on getting a dog, it's time to talk to breeders and owners of East European Shepherds to decide whether you need a dog of this particular breed.

If this has not dampened your enthusiasm, you can start choosing an East European Shepherd puppy.

Pros and cons of the breed

ProsCons

High intelligence	The need for professional training and long walks
Excellent guard potential	Can't stand loneliness
Excellent performance qualities	Heavy shedding
Devotion
People-oriented
Good attitude towards children
Obedient

The East European Shepherd is the embodiment of strength, courage and devotion. This is a wonderful service dog, a loyal family friend and an excellent companion who is ready to follow his owner everywhere.

Care and maintenance

The East European Shepherd is unpretentious - it is not afraid of either cold or heat, and does not require careful grooming. It is better for a large pet to live in the courtyard of a private house. A kennel must be installed outside so that the dog can shelter from bad weather. The breed is less suitable for apartment living than the German Shepherd. However, with frequent walks, she will be able to adapt to any conditions.

The right diet

It is allowed to feed the East European Shepherd both ready-made food and natural food.

Industrial products must:

be high class - not lower than premium;
match the size of the pet - for these shepherd dogs, food for large breeds is optimal;
meet the needs of a specific animal - there are separate lines for pregnant and lactating females, older dogs.

With natural feeding, the diet is formed as follows:

50% – lean meat and high-quality offal;
30% – cereals (rice, buckwheat, oatmeal);
10% – seasonal vegetables and fresh herbs;
10% – fermented milk products.

A couple of times a week, sea fish, chicken eggs, and fruits (apples, pears) are included in the menu. Food is given strictly after a walk to avoid digestive problems. In consultation with the veterinarian, vitamin and mineral complexes are selected.

Walking and physical activity

Shepherd dogs are taken outside twice a day. A walk is needed not only to perform natural needs, but also for games, jogging, and training at specialized sites. You can go with your pet to the river bank, into the forest or on a hike.

Dogs of this breed not only need to get physical exercise, but also regularly communicate with their owner. Therefore, even when kept outdoors, when the pet can move a lot on its own, the owner must set aside time every day for joint games.

Training and education

This shepherd is easy to train, but working with it must be more consistent and persistent than with its German counterpart. It should be trained by an experienced instructor, not a beginner: in inept hands it can become uncontrollable, overly aggressive and willful.

Raising a puppy must begin from childhood - without competent socialization, it will not be able to adequately interact with the outside world. The dog is taught to obey and follow commands in any circumstances, to treat strangers, relatives and other four-legged animals calmly.

During adolescence, East European Shepherds try to dominate, so it is important to build the correct hierarchy in time: to show that only the owner is the undisputed leader.

Training an East European Shepherd at home first takes place in the form of a game. The puppy is taught basic commands, fetching skills and searching for objects. The first lessons should last about five minutes - the little dog still doesn’t know how to concentrate.

On a note. The East European Shepherd requires constant training. In the absence of intellectual and physical activity, puppies acquire bad habits.

As they get older, training takes more and more time. By six months, the puppy can already exercise for 30-40 minutes. However, the activities need to be varied; the dog quickly gets tired of performing monotonous actions.

By six months the pet should know the following commands:

"Sit!";
"Lie!";
"Stand!";
"Ugh!";
"It is forbidden!";
"Near!";
"Place!";
“Aport!”

They are necessary not only for service dogs, but also for pets.

At approximately 9 months, puppies are sent to a general training course (GTC). After passing the exam, the dog can undergo a special training course - guard, protective guard or search.

Care and hygiene

The coat of the East European Shepherd is brushed every 5–7 days, and every other day during the shedding period. Bathing once a year is enough - the coat is able to clean itself. In the summer, your pet will not refuse to swim in a river or lake - there is no need to deprive him of such pleasure.

Ears and eyes are cleaned once a week, nails are trimmed every month. To maintain healthy teeth, the dog is given beef bones or dental treats to chew on. You can periodically clean it using a brush and veterinary paste.

Vaccinations and susceptibility to disease

Primary vaccination of puppies is carried out at 8 weeks, when the immunity transmitted through mother's milk weakens. The complex vaccine includes strains of common deadly diseases:

canine distemper (distemper);
parvovirus enteritis;
parainfluenza;
leptospirosis;
viral hepatitis.

A month later, revaccination is carried out. At 6-7 months they are vaccinated against rabies: this approach is more gentle than the rabies vaccination at 3-4 months. Adult animals are vaccinated every year and treated against worms, fleas and ticks every 3 months. The veterinarian can adjust the vaccination schedule based on health, living conditions and the prevalence of disease in a particular area.

On a note. Sick, estrus and pregnant dogs, as well as puppies whose teeth are changing, are not allowed to be vaccinated.

Like other large breeds, East European Shepherds often have joint problems. Therefore, even when purchasing a puppy, you should study x-rays of the parents’ limbs to rule out the presence of dysplasia.

Other typical diseases:

volvulus of the stomach and intestines;
rickets;
enteritis.

Dogs of this breed have better health than the German Shepherd. In particular, Eastern Europeans do not catch a cold even after being exposed to the cold for a long time.