Labrador's first litter

Benefits of using dog poop as fertilizer

Some gardeners are sure that dog droppings are useful for feeding. Thanks to the use of animal excrement, the soil receives:

1. necessary macro- and microelements (nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus);
2. a nutrient medium favorable for the birth and proliferation of bacteria, making the soil loose, enriched with oxygen and facilitating better absorption of water by plant roots.

Lilies, chrysanthemums, cannas, roses, and yucca love excrement.

Terms, norms and features of application

Dog excrement cannot be used fresh as fertilizer: excess nitrogen can adversely affect the root system of plants. To make organic matter useful, it is made into compost.

Rules for collecting and preparing excrement for application to the soil

It is better to collect for fertilizer those waste products that have already hardened or become covered with a white coating. Then it is recommended to fold the droppings together with fallen leaves, sawdust, weeds and food waste and close tightly. A year later, the compost heap is opened and the resulting organic fertilizer is applied during the spring or autumn digging of the soil.

Whatever the breed and no matter how easily this bitch whelped before, she should not be left unattended during whelping. What kind of supervision is required depends largely on the nature of the bitch and her breed. Dogs that live in large kennels and do not have much human contact may prefer to whelp themselves and may often resent interference. However, such bitches should not be left unattended during whelping. While they are puppies, they need to be supervised, but not to disturb them too much after an hour or so. Bitches who occupy the position of a family member usually prefer to have their owner closer during whelping. And they feel better with his sympathetic attention.

So, you have already prepared a place for giving birth and keeping the dog with puppies, as mentioned earlier, it should be quite spacious, proportional to the size of the dog, with two compartments: a lounger and a place for walking the puppies, the exit should be made so that the puppies cannot go out, and the dog could, although it is better for the door to close completely; not all bitches are ready to spend most of the time with the litter. In addition to preparing a completely clean bed and whelping box, it is very important that the whelping area is well cleaned and disinfected. The bitch should be introduced to the new area and whelping box at least ten days before whelping. But if she is the type of dog that slowly gets used to change, she can be moved to a new place earlier - two to three weeks before the expected whelping date. In general, all preparations for whelping should be done in advance, taking into account, if possible, all contingencies.

Also prepare a “birthing kit” so that you have everything you need at hand.

Maternity kit

:

- old duvet covers or large disposable diapers (60*90), on which the bitch will whelp (disposable diapers are preferable - less washing, and more cleanliness);

- a lot of small soft rags ironed with a hot iron from old bedding (to wipe down puppies);

- sterile gauze wipes (usually unnecessary, the puppy’s mouth is dried with a piece of cloth, into which, in fact, the puppy is received);

- a pen, a notebook, scales and thick woolen threads or ribbons (it is better to use floss, because the bitch simply licks and removes woolen threads);

- bowl for afterbirth;

- a box or basin for puppies with a heating pad (wrapped in a diaper) - this is in case the bitch behaves restlessly during childbirth and there is a risk of losing the puppies... the best option is a bitch giving birth with puppies at the nipples;

- sterile scissors and a medical clamp (it is not necessary to boil; at the onset of labor, place in a jar with any alcohol);

- a bar of milk chocolate;

- cinnamon powder - for gentle stimulation of weak contractions and pushing;

- an antiseptic, preferably a spray (Aluminium, Xydicol, Septonex) for treating the umbilical cord.

And also a kit for resuscitation of puppies

:

— cordiamine to stimulate cardiac activity (a drop on the tongue of a newborn);

— an oxygen canister (to give a weak puppy a chance to breathe), costs about 400 rubles in pharmacies;

- a small rubber heating pad;

- a small enema for sucking mucus from the mouth of a very weak puppy.

As for medications, during a normal birth they will not be needed, and if you had to resort to the help of a veterinarian, then he will have the necessary kit.

Necessary medical kit

— Homeopathic medicines: Ovariovit, Travmatin, Mastomethrin;

- hydrogen peroxide;

- glucose 40% - 2-3 ampoules - for feeding a bitch during prolonged labor;

— Oxytocin (gefetocin or mamaphysin) – 2-3 ampoules to quickly stimulate contractions or reject a failed placenta (as prescribed by a doctor!).

— No-spa – 2-3 ampoules;

- Corvalol or valocardine - 5-10 drops immediately after the end of labor to suppress “labor hysteria”, repeat every 4 hours if necessary;

— Calcium gluconate 2 ampoules;

— 1-2 ml syringes for injections if necessary (+ 5-10 ml for subcutaneous injections depending on the size of the dog);

You will also need a watch to mark the time of birth of the puppies and a notepad to record the details of the whelping (they will come in handy in the future), with your veterinarian's phone number displayed in a visible place. It's also great to have a scale for weighing newborn puppies. The puppy's birth weight, among other whelping details, should also be recorded in a notebook.

Bitches usually whelp between 58 and 63 days. Large litters are born earlier, and small ones a little later. In small breeds, bitches usually whelp three days earlier than the normal average. In the last days before whelping, you need to monitor the bitch’s body temperature. The normal temperature measured in the anus is about 38.5°C. Two days before giving birth, the bitch's temperature usually drops to 37°C or even lower. But since this does not always happen, you need to be attentive to all other signs of impending whelping. And yet, more often than not, if the temperature remains normal, then the bitch is unlikely to whelp in the next 24 hours. Before whelping, it is good to give the bitch a mild laxative to help her cleanse her intestines.

The most objective indicators of the last days of pregnancy are

:

1. lowering of the abdomen. Puppies can be easily palpated and move (7-10 days before birth);

2. Relaxation of the pelvic ligaments, the appearance of mobility of the sacral bone (2-3 days before birth);

3. The appearance of viscous transparent vaginal discharge - the mucous plug comes off (2-3 days before the onset of labor);

4. A drop in body temperature by 1.5 – 2 degrees – 1 day.

It is better if, 2-3 days before the expected birth, you call a veterinarian or clinic, warning in advance about a possible call; in any case, the necessary phone numbers should be in a visible place.

First signs

A few days before giving birth, the bitch will probably refuse to go far from home for a regular walk, will begin to look for a place of solitude, and may refuse to eat. Many dogs, especially during their first whelping, become very restless and run around the house in despair. They often whine and moan. They start scratching in the corners or tearing up their bedding, showing with all their appearance that they are not feeling well at all. Before giving birth, the bitch becomes more tender and especially affectionate with her owners. A few hours before the onset of contractions, she often lies in a very typical position, the way dogs rarely lie - she lies down with her front legs fully extended, her head lowered between them with a particularly mournful expression in her eyes. She always looks pleadingly at her owner, it is noticeable how worried she is.

If the dog is whelping for the first time, it is better if you show it to a veterinarian 2-3 days before giving birth. A few days before giving birth, milk appears, especially in dogs that have already given birth, the stomach drops, and the top line sags. But it is necessary to take into account during the first birth and especially with small litters that all these signs may not be expressed.

Contractions

A few hours before the onset of contractions, the vagina swells, the loop becomes very soft, and a thick, sticky discharge appears from it, which dog breeders often do not notice, especially in small breed bitches. At the same time, the temperature drops to 37°C.

Puppyhood begins with a restless state, often accompanied by trembling, the dog may at times pant, scratch and tear the bedding in the box. This condition can last from one to 24 hours. Therefore, be patient, do not fuss and do not worry the dog. So far everything is going according to plan.

The stages of labor can be divided into three parts:

First stage

- expansion of the birth canal.

Second stage

- delivery of the puppy, when contractions are visible and felt, they continue during normal labor for up to two hours.

Third stage

- removal of the placenta and membranes. They usually come out within 5-15 minutes after the puppy is born. Sometimes they come out with the next puppy.

The restlessness stage, which occurs at the beginning of whelping, is caused by an increase in intra-abdominal pressure. Uterine contractions at this time are still irregular and weak, so they are not noticeable. Between contractions, the muscles of the uterus relax and gradually the body of the uterus, vagina and loop expand. The pain is vague and unpleasant at first, so the dog becomes more and more restless. She looks back anxiously, spins around in place, then lies down, but soon gets up again, clearly noticeable how unwell she is. Some bitches vomit at this time, almost all refuse to eat. Abundant mucous secretions appear from the loop, which lubricate the birth canal, preparing it for the passage of the puppy. Until the contractions become strong, regular and noticeable, they cannot harm the bitch or puppy.

Attempts

With an increase in the intensity of labor contractions, the second stage begins, when the contractions of the uterus - contractions - are joined by pushing - contractions of the abdominal muscles. At this time, the bitch usually lies down and when she tenses, she presses her back and croup firmly against the wall of the box. It’s good if she has a paw rest.

Most bitches whelp lying on their right side, but some prefer to whelp standing, others do this or that. Gradually, the water bubble with the puppy is pushed through the opening of the pelvis into the vagina. First, the water bladder presses on the cervix and passes into the birth canal, gradually the canal becomes softer and expands more and more, until finally the uterus, cervix and vagina form one wide birth canal.

During the second stage of labor, uterine contractions can be felt by placing your hand on the bitch's belly. Contractions become regular, strong, and the uterus hardens with each contraction and then gradually relaxes. In the intervals between contractions, the bitch relaxes, breathes heavily and looks absently. During contractions she may even scream.

The appearance of puppies

The logical conclusion of the efforts should be the appearance of a puppy. Gradually, the water bubble with the puppy, under the influence of contractions, comes out into the pelvis, and then is forcefully pushed further towards the exit from the vagina, passing part of the way with each strong contraction. The lowest puppy in the uterus emerges first; unfortunately, it is often the largest in the litter and therefore its birth is the most difficult. Often on this part of the puppy's path, when the contraction is at its strongest, the bubble bursts. Sometimes he appears from the loop several times and disappears again.

The appearance of a water bubble should not be confused with a harbinger of the birth of a puppy by a fetal bladder, and the bladder that appears from the loop during pushing bursts. This cannot be done.

It is easy to determine whether the puppy is walking by feeling the crotch above the loop. There will be noticeable swelling there - you need to touch it. If a bubble comes, it will be soft to the touch, but the puppy will feel like something hard and solid. After the bubble bursts, nature allows the dog to rest a little to gather strength for the last very strong, even powerful contractions before the birth of the puppy. These contractions are extremely painful and debilitating, accompanied by strong contractions of the abdominal muscles and diaphragm. All these muscle movements push the passive puppies until, finally, the first one comes out.

The puppy is usually born head first, back up. Gradually, the puppy moves along the birth canal, and its head reaches the loop. At this moment, the bitch has a short rest before the next contraction, which should push the puppy's shoulders through the opening of the pelvis, this is the most difficult moment in the birth of the puppy, after which it simply slips out of the birth canal.

Usually the puppy is born in a bubble, sometimes the bubble bursts at the moment of birth. While the puppy was walking along the birth canal, the placenta began to separate; sometimes it manages to separate from the wall of the uterus and by the time the puppy comes out, it can follow the umbilical cord along with it.

Placenta department

After the puppy is expelled, there is usually one more contraction before they stop for a while, this contraction will push out the membranes and placenta if it did not come out with the puppy. After the puppy leaves the uterus, it contracts in size, which causes complete separation of the placenta and at the same time compression and closure of the blood vessels damaged during the separation of the placenta. The uterus contracts quickly and the cervix remains open so that the membranes and placenta are expelled easily and usually come out immediately after each puppy is born. Sometimes their exit may be delayed, but then the placenta will be pushed in front of it by the following puppy.

Not all dogs try to remove the membrane from the puppy and treat the umbilical cord. Of course, the bitch should be allowed to rest, but it is very important that the person delivering the baby quickly ruptures the membrane of the membranes near the newborn puppy's muzzle, otherwise he may suffocate.

If whelping proceeds without complications, then the bitch herself tears the membrane of the bladder with her teeth, frees the puppy, and then bites the umbilical cord. She should be allowed to do it all herself if that's what she wants. The exceptions are round-headed breeds such as bulldogs and Pekingese, some toy breeds, and any other breeds with poor teeth. Some dogs, especially those of disproportionately built breeds, have a hard time whelping and are unable to bend over and reach their loop until all the puppies are born, so they cannot help them at birth. In this case, a person must carry out all the processing of the puppy.

All bitches, regardless of breed, should be observed at this stage of whelping, as some bitches can be very rough with their babies, especially if they have not had puppies before. Some bitches pull the umbilical cord with their teeth even after they bite it. Do not allow the bitch to do this, as an umbilical hernia may form.

Puppies, as a rule, are born strong and healthy, their mother licks them diligently and rather roughly pushes them with her nose and turns them over. This is wonderful because it stimulates the puppies' vital functions in all respects, especially breathing and blood circulation. Thorough licking dries out the puppies and causes the first loss of feces. A strong puppy knows exactly how to reach the nipple, and some puppies reach the rear nipples and begin to suck while connected to the mother by the umbilical cord, that is, even before they are fully born. Sucking puppies stimulates uterine contractions and speeds up whelping.

It is important to know! If more than 2 hours have passed from the moment the pushing began and the water broke until the appearance of the fetus, this is a reason to urgently seek the help of a veterinary specialist!

Puppies stuck in the birth canal, especially if the bladder has burst, will die without assistance, and can also put the health of the dog itself at risk.

Umbilical cord separation

If the bitch has not bitten the umbilical cord, it can be easily torn. The umbilical cord has a section where it is weakened and often ruptures itself in this very place. The best case is when the umbilical cord is long enough and does not break during the birth of the puppy, and the placenta comes out with the puppy or immediately after it. In this case, you should first help the bitch free the puppy from the membranes and wipe it of mucus, only after that you can deal with the umbilical cord. The puppy should not be allowed to crawl, dragging the placenta along with it on the umbilical cord, as an umbilical hernia may occur.

Before separating the umbilical cord, you need to carefully milk the blood in it towards the puppy. This will be his last internal nourishment from his mother. There is no need to cut the umbilical cord - this usually causes some bleeding, which weakens the puppy. If after the birth of the puppy the placenta is still in the birth canal, then, after squeezing out the blood, pinch part of the umbilical cord at the very loop of the bitch with medical surgical forceps. In this way, you can hold the placenta so that after the umbilical cord ruptures it does not go back into the uterus. Now grab the umbilical cord with your thumb and forefinger at a distance of 2-3 cm from the puppy’s belly, and with the index and thumb of the other hand even further from the puppy’s tummy, about 2-3 cm. Keep the hand farthest from the puppy completely still. With the hand closest to the puppy, pull the umbilical cord towards the puppy and it will immediately break. In this case, the blood vessels stretch and narrow, there will be no bleeding and there will be no need to tie the umbilical cord. There is also no need to use any antiseptic and, of course, never iodine!

If the puppy comes out without a shell, if he is covered in blood or green liquid, it is very important to clear his nose and mouth of this so that he can begin to breathe on his own as quickly as possible.

Intervals

Most dogs whelp within 15-30 minutes of each other. Sometimes 4-6 puppies will be born one after the other and then if the litter is large there may be a 1-2 hour break before the next batch of puppies arrives. It often takes anywhere from a few hours to a full day to birth a litter of 12-14 puppies, and can sometimes take longer.

When the bitch is too exhausted after the birth of any puppy and refuses to lick and stimulate it, this should be done with the help of a hard, heated towel by the person delivering the baby.

A delay in the release of the next puppy by more than 2-2.5 hours is a reason to call the veterinarian!

The afterbirth is everything that comes out with the puppy - the membranes, umbilical cord and placenta. Sometimes the umbilical cord is so short that at the moment the puppy is born, it breaks from tension and the placenta, without having time to come out, remains in the uterus or vagina. After about 15 minutes she comes out on her own or is pushed out at birth by the next puppy.

The afterbirths need to be counted and thus establish the number of afterbirths eaten by the bitch, and perhaps the number of afterbirths that did not come out at all.

Most often, the release of placenta from puppies that are born last is delayed. These pups may have occupied the far end of the uterine horn and are taking longer to emerge. If by chance the placenta or parts thereof remain in the uterus, metritis may develop, i.e. inflammation of the uterus and the consequences of this will be extremely serious.

If there is any doubt about the release of all placenta or the release of the last placenta is delayed, you need to call a veterinarian.

It is important to know! If the afterbirth or dead puppy is not removed from the uterus within 60 hours after birth, the dog will die!

Newborn puppy

Immediately after birth, the membrane must be removed from the puppy so that it can breathe: this is done by the bitch or the person delivering the baby. The puppy usually opens his mouth once or twice, then begins to breathe. At first the breathing is shallow and rather weak, but soon it becomes completely normal. It is a very bad sign if the puppy breathes with his mouth open. Some puppies will be born completely dead, motionless and without signs of breathing. It is very important that the puppy begins breathing immediately after birth. As soon as breathing returns to normal, he will crawl towards his mother’s nipples with great energy, quickly find the nipple and begin to suck.

The first milk - colostrum - contains a mild laxative and it is very important that this milk gets into the puppy's intestines as soon as possible. It stimulates peristalsis and ensures bowel movements. A puppy's first stool (meconium) is a black, sticky mass that accumulates in the intestines before birth. It is important that the meconium passes as soon as possible, since until this happens, normal digestion cannot begin. When the bitch licks the puppy, she also stimulates intestinal activity. If a weak puppy is born, he has to be given additional help by massaging his tummy with a small piece of moistened cotton wool until he has a bowel movement.

Giving birth to a dog is quite a “dirty process”, so change the bedding after the birth of each puppy and after the birth of the placenta, do not force the dog and puppies to lie in a puddle and mud!

After whelping

As soon as the bitch finishes whelping, she needs to be given some warm tea with milk and glucose. During whelping, in the intervals between the births of puppies, she should also be offered a warm drink, as well as a small piece. The birth of puppies is a great test for a bitch. The amount of fluid that she loses through water bubbles and bleeding must be gradually replaced. She should not be given too much to drink immediately after whelping - she should be offered to drink little by little, but often.

After all the effort, the bitch will be very tired and to regain her strength she needs to be kept warm, not disturbed and left completely alone with her puppies for a while.

After giving birth, there will be some spotting for some time, especially noticeable in large breed bitches. This discharge will continue for a week or a little longer.

The bitch will have a rather weak stomach for a few days after whelping, this is considered normal, although if her stomach seems to be working very poorly, the bitch should be given a few tablets of activated charcoal. Strong medications should not be given because anything the bitch takes will be passed on to the puppies through her milk.

Meals in the first days after childbirth should also be in small portions and dietary. If the bitch is given too high-calorie food immediately after whelping, milk production can be over-stimulated and there will be much more milk than the puppies need. This can cause congestion of the mammary glands, and then inflammation, especially if the litter is small. Natural raw meat should not be given in the first week!

During the first week, the bitch should be taken away from the puppies so she can relieve herself, four times a day for approximately 5-10 minutes each time. In the second week, the walking time can be increased to 15-30 minutes. Walking stimulates milk production; in addition, at least minimal physical activity is needed so that the bitch gradually restores her condition.

After a walk, the nipples should be wiped with a damp cloth and dried, after which the bitch can be allowed to return to the puppies.

It must be remembered that at this time the bitch experiences great mental and physiological stress and it is better that no one disturbs her when she is lying in the “nest” with her puppies. Cleaning the box should be done in the absence of the bitch while she is out for a walk. During these first days, it is better not to allow strangers near the bitch; the owner should refrain from showing off the cute litter to his friends until the puppies are a little older and the bitch is no longer so nervous. The appearance of strangers usually upsets the bitch very much, especially if she is a very caring mother.

Here we have told you how childbirth normally occurs in dogs, but you should always remember that there are often deviations from the norm, in the form of malpresentation of puppies, narrow birth canals in dogs, large puppies, etc. This is especially true for owners of dogs of so-called “extreme” breeds: toy breeds, dog breeds with a shortened muzzle, giant breeds. It is important to remember that with all the deviations from the norm that we talked about here, you should urgently seek veterinary help, and not try to correct the situation yourself.

Childbirth is a process that cannot be stopped or delayed, so “waiting for everything to work out” is unacceptable in this case!

Materials from the article were used from the site https://www.zoovet.ru

Precautionary measures

You should work with dog manure carefully; after collecting the ingredients for fertilizer, you should thoroughly wash your hands with soap.

Vegetables and fruits grown in beds fed with animal feces should also be washed with plenty of water.

There are different opinions on whether dog droppings can be used as fertilizer. There is no clear answer to this question. Most gardeners and amateur gardeners who have tried dog droppings as fertilizer in their garden beds note many positive effects. There are reviews on forums about feces as an excellent fertilizer for vegetables and fruits.

Skeptics argue that fertilizing your garden with feces is both harmful and (at best) ineffective. They argue that dog droppings must be immediately removed from the area and burned.

Organic fertilizer made from dog waste is no different from cow or pig manure. And if you prepare it and use it correctly, it can turn out to be even more useful than any others.

nursery MULTATULI

Have you ever thought that it would be nice if there was some kind of instruction or guide on how to choose the best puppy from the litter? Of course, this would make the task much easier, but, unfortunately, Mother Nature often complicates our choice. Of course, it happens when a puppy stands out from the entire litter, and its choice is not difficult, but much more often the litters are approximately even. And how do we choose the best from an even, average litter? This is what we will discuss in this article. I'll share with you some tips that have helped us select the best puppies over the years and what to look for when evaluating small puppies.

First of all, I want to note that our expectations and our own dogs can very easily overshadow objective reality , and the fact that you bred your bitch to an outstanding dog does not at all guarantee that the litter will produce a puppy that will win Best In Show. Some of our best dogs have come from matings that we didn't expect much from. I want to say that just because you bred a bitch does not mean that the litter will be wonderful. We always hope so, of course, but Nature and Science sometimes muddle our cards, leaving the final results unclear until a later time. But you still want to choose the best puppy from this litter to move on, and for this there are a few things you should pay attention to so as not to make the wrong choice.

When should you start looking at puppies to decide which one to keep? Cindy starts evaluating them from day one. She looks at the puppies' heads, color, leg length, femur-to-tibia ratio, and energy level. At this age they seem to me to be largely the same, but Cindy begins to choose from the day she is born. I can't really argue with her as she really does manage to pick good puppies. Over time, we begin to watch how the puppies react to each other, to sounds, noise and other dogs. Yes, we allow adult dogs into the room where the puppies are. We have never had any problems with this, and nursing bitches are not at all averse to taking a break from the children for a while. I remember that once when we had a litter from Ch. Piperhill King Arthur x Showtime Say G'NightGracie, We were very careful to keep the puppies separate from the adults (or so we thought) until one day we saw Gracie's father, Ch. Hu-Mar's Showtime Solid Gold, curled up sleeping with his grandchildren. We decided everything was fine. Fortunately, we have always had dogs with good temperaments, and there has never been a need to keep puppies separate from adults.

At around 6-10 weeks we start choosing the best puppy in earnest. Usually, even before mating, we decide what gender of the puppy we want to keep, but this does not affect the assessment of the litter as a whole. Sometimes it happened that one puppy immediately stood out from the litter, and we even changed our original intentions regarding the gender in favor of that puppy. At this age, puppies begin to use the qualities that nature has awarded them. To me it's like a family tree come to life. I start to look at how they move, how balanced they are, hoping to catch the traits of relatives that I liked; and trying to see something special that distinguishes one puppy from all the others. I look at the merits first, trying to compare the small puppy to the standard. I believe that at 6-10 weeks of age they are a smaller version of the adult dog. Different bloods develop differently, some form and mature very early, others very late. It is very helpful to take out the Blue Book of the Cocker Spaniel or some other book that illustrates the breed and try to compare your litter with what is described in it. Many important decisions that can affect the future of the breed are made in these few weeks, and it would be quite correct and logical to use all possible tools and means for this.

Let's say you have almost decided on the choice of the puppy that best meets the standard and has the qualities that you wanted; now it's time to make the next decision. And this is where “nursery blindness” sometimes stalks us . We do not see any shortcomings in the puppies and are sure that this litter will certainly have Mr. Perfect. And, of course, everyone should see it too. Believe it or not, some newbies will be much more successful than you in selecting the best puppy from your litter because they do not suffer from “kennel blindness.” I suggest contacting two or three knowledgeable and experienced breeders whose opinions you respect, and who have been in the breed long enough to understand the standard, and ask them to look at the litter . Don't tell them your opinion about puppies, otherwise they might tell you what you want to hear. Be prepared to accept their opinions as simply opinions about the litter and not as knowledge of the standard or "kennel blindness." If you do not agree with this opinion, it is your litter, and you have every right to disagree with what others say about it, but since you are interested in the opinions of others, be prepared for the fact that their opinion may differ from yours. Perhaps you would like to get the opinion of a professional handler? Or a professional breeder? You may end up with two completely different estimates, but you'll likely end up with the one that's more consistent with your future plans. What do you expect from a puppy: do you want him to become a show record holder or do you want to keep a dog with which you will improve your line over the years? Some professional handlers are very skillful and far-sighted in choosing dogs, but most of us value handling skills in them. Good handlers are able to highlight and bring out the best in your dog, which means they also understand the breed standard. But the most important thing to understand is that not all professional handlers can choose the best puppy at 6-10 weeks of age, and most simply do not have the time to help you with this. A professional breeder will likely want to look at your litter. This is an additional opportunity for him to compare your litter with his own and share his knowledge. An invitation to view and evaluate a litter is flattering to a professional breeder. If he is asked to choose the best puppy and you support his choice, you can be sure that he will be as proud as you of the dog's achievements, since he was involved in the process. Give credit to their opinions, whether handler or breeder. Now that you've decided whose opinion other than your own you want to know about the litter, what's next?

Prepare a place for easy assessment. Prepare a table for an individual examination, perhaps even with a mirror; notebook. Prepare an area large enough to let all the puppies out and watch them play and interact with each other. Have puppy leashes ready (more than one if you want to compare two puppies in motion). Before examination, cut and wash the puppies. And don't invite a lot of people. Remember that you want to hear one person's opinion, and if you have several people speaking to you, all these different opinions will simply create confusion. Everyone can come later. If there are still some other people, then these can only be potential buyers or people invited by those who will inspect the litter. If you have a video camera, it can be very useful, especially if the decision-making process is difficult or your potential buyers are unable to come to view the litter.

Now let’s take the puppies apart “bone by bone” to better understand what we want. The breed standard consists of several sections describing the ideal dog. If we take a specific puppy and compare it to each section of the standard, we will have a clearer picture of that puppy and will be able to better assess its potential. This is a kind of discarding emotions and focusing on facts. It is at this stage that we can begin to evaluate the advantages and disadvantages. I say "evaluate the faults" because all dogs have them, and we must decide which ones we can live with, or which ones we consider minimal compared to the strengths. If a dog has a low tail and a fine front, how important is that to your future breeding program? This can be very important, especially if it is a dominant defect in your blood, and it is also one of the most obvious defects, easily visible to the eye. If you start to analyze why this flaw occurred and how it will affect the dog's balance, it may become a major flaw for you; but it can also be a minor fault if the tail is set a little low, but the dog carries it correctly. The point is to appreciate all parts of the dog as elements of the whole picture. It all depends on what you are aiming for.

Another thing to consider when choosing the best puppy is the parents. I love comparing puppies to famous relatives, especially the sire and dam. We, to the best of our ability, want to improve them, so pay attention to those traits that the puppy turned out better than the father or mother. You will be able to advance in your breeding program or show career if you can carefully select the right puppy from the average litter. Even in even litters there is a puppy who is better than the rest of his littermates. Maybe you want a better front, and puppy "A" has a better front than puppy "B", so you choose puppy "A", but puppy "B" is more balanced and I find him better than puppy "A" " We should base our choice of puppy on our knowledge and further breeding needs. If I know that the parents developed the front end quite late, then I would probably choose puppy "B", but if I needed to improve the front, and the parents didn't have a very good front, then I would probably lean to choosing puppy “A”, especially if I knew that somewhere in the ancestors along this line there were good fronts. At this stage, we begin to evaluate the behavior of each puppy, how he tries to prove to us that he is the best. In the next part of the article, I will tell you how good puppies differ from average ones, and when you can see it. In the meantime, good luck with your shows and breeding.

So, the time has come to choose the best puppies and those that are non-show and will not be used for breeding. Temperament plays a big role in this choice . A temperamental puppy is able to overcome structural defects with its temperament, and we often see such examples at exhibitions. The difference between such a puppy and a good puppy is that the latter can be exhibited at the Special rank. A very temperamental puppy can easily mislead you, especially if you are choosing a show dog. Personally, I would prefer a dog with the best conformation over temperament, unless the puppy is timid. Proper socialization can significantly correct temperament. A temperamental puppy will, of course, attract more attention at first, but for the serious breeder who is interested in more than the speed of a bullet, some other issues come to the fore.

When you let the puppies outside, pay attention to their movements : push and reach, top line, head position. Pay attention to how puppies react to flowers, butterflies, and birds. Watch how they pick up and carry toys. Do they do it confidently or are they just playing with a toy on the ground? When the puppy is carrying a toy, I look at the line of the neck to see if it forms an arch. If there is no arch, it may indicate another problem, such as the shoulder being too forward. The shoulder position is well described in the standard. I'm trying to visualize the standard as describing a moving dog. In a moving puppy, I want to see a long neck that flows beautifully into the shoulders. The neck should be long enough to allow the dog to sniff with its nose down to the ground. I would like this sentence in the standard to be expanded to read: “The neck should be long enough for the dog’s nose to reach the ground when moving.” For me, the mental picture is much more important. A short neck is not so beautiful, and, it seems to me, unsuitable for a real hunter. This is due to the fact that very often short-necked cockers also have a straight front, limiting the reach of the front legs so that it is balanced with the drive of the hind legs, as a result of which such dogs exhaust themselves earlier than more balanced ones. Observe the puppies as they play outside and see which one gets out of the game first or lags behind in chasing the ball.

The way the puppy holds his topline also says a lot . If the movement is bouncing, this indicates a front or rear balance problem, and if the topline is level in movement, this puppy should be taken a closer look. A sideways movement in a puppy may mean that his back is too short, his shoulders are too straight, or both. When a dog has to walk its hind legs around its front legs to keep them from getting tangled, this is a sign of abnormal conformation. Some may argue that sideways movement is characteristic of all puppies, but I am talking about sideways movement when the dog is moving freely. When assessing the movements of puppies on the street, a large audience is also undesirable, as this will distract the puppies and interfere with the assessment of their structure.

I often saw in the ring, and we do it at home, is a comparison of the length of the muzzle with the skull . We still continue to do this at home. The nose should be square and located at a distance from the transition equal to half the distance from the transition to the base of the skull. And, of course, the head must be balanced with the dog as a whole. The bite should be a scissor bite and the muzzle should not be “cropped” or short. Next, we move on to the puppy’s body and evaluate the depth of the chest, shoulder position, chest volume, tail position and musculature. This sounds like a description of a dog that should work in the fields, but that's exactly what a cocker should be. I believe this is where we lose a lot of good dogs when we favor slimmer, more elegant dogs in the belief that they look prettier; but when writing the standard, the function of the dog, and not its beauty, came first. Functional heart and lung capabilities are a must for a dog that will work in the field or show seriously at the Special rank. Show dogs of the Special rank generally have a well-developed, voluminous chest with a good shoulder angle. This is the main reason they can move easily and compete in the ring with larger hunting breeds. Not all small puppies have a full chest and excellent shoulder angle at such an early age, but knowing the bloodlines behind the puppy can help.

Haven't we talked about wool yet? We constantly hear the question: “How can you tell from a small puppy whether he will have enough hair?”, especially when it comes to fawn bitches. The texture of the Cocker Spaniel's coat is very important in terms of care and functionality. Correct coat structure should be the most important factor in assessing wool. Over time, I increasingly come across the fact that people are more concerned about the quantity of wool rather than its quality. I watched as Cindy trimmed and groomed cockers for nearly 20 years and watched as arthritis began to take its toll on her hands. I remember that at first we strived to have more wool, and its quality was not so important in order to successfully exhibit and be competitive at the exhibition. And today many people think the same, but at exhibitions we increasingly see dogs with the correct coat structure. I hope this trend continues. Today, Cindy spends very little time preparing the coat of our black cocker, who has virtually no tangles, but still has a coat that looks great in the show ring. With proper care, the coat of the correct structure grows long enough for the dog to look decent in the ring; however, it does not interfere with the dog’s functionality. The cottony coat that characterized cockers of the past was terrible to maintain. Jerry Moon used to say that our fawn dogs were chubby, and he was right, no matter how much we hated it. Therefore, try to choose a puppy with the best coat. The texture of the coat on the back and chest is a good indicator of what the coat of an adult dog will be like.

In conclusion, you should try to see the puppy with the greatest potential for the future of the breed. Try to imagine what the next generation will be like if you use this dog in your breeding program. Ask yourself if this is the dog you or the breed really want. At the same time, do not forget about the standard. Do not be influenced by friendships or famous bloodlines when choosing a dog that is beneficial to the breed. I truly believe that if you choose a dog based on the needs of the breed, it will be anatomically correct and will serve you well for a long time. As an example, I can tell you the story of how we chose between two dogs. The caveat is that they were already adults at the time we made the decision, but that decision was based on what we considered necessary for the breed, and we chose the dog that best met the standard. The first was a male of our breeding, who already at a very young age won a lot in the AKC system, and behind him stood the blood of good sires and good show dogs. His father was a national champion and produced 25 champions. The mother was from the best breeder) and also won many times in color. This male was from her first litter. In all subsequent litters she also gave birth to champions. The dog was a winner, he won a lot, but there were some things in him that we would like to improve over time, but we had little success in this. He can be quite accurately described as "ostentatious", and he almost always attracted the attention of the judges. Overall, he had a very good prospect for a career in the Special rank with the right exposure and good advertising. Showing as an owner-breeder, he was one of the first 15 dogs of his time when the rings were more numerous. We used him, but only one of his puppies "closed". I don’t think it was his build, although he was a bad knitter, but it had more to do with his temperament, he could never calm down. Remember what I said about a puppy that is very temperamental, but not necessarily the best in the litter. The same could be said about this male. The second male was a cousin of the first, their fathers were siblings. This male was built differently, moved easily, but was not as showy; he had less hair, but it had a more regular structure. Both had beautiful heads, and if you put them side by side, you would think that they were siblings. This male, when he ran around the yard, never lost his step on turns, and could sniff the ground while walking, also without breaking his stride. His back was a little soft, but he had excellent control over his locomotor system. There was no noticeable softness in the back during movement. He had a fuller, deeper chest, making him appear stockier to the untrained eye. He had a long, strong neck and a wonderful shoulder angle. He also won a lot in the AKC system, but in less tough competition, and most of his big victories were under breed judges. Looking at these two dogs side by side, it would be difficult for many to choose the better one, as both had their own advantages and disadvantages. In the end, the choice was determined by what was most needed to improve our line and move to the next level, and bring something needed for the breed in the future. From the mating of this male with a female who was on loan to us, two champions were born, who also produced winners, many champions (about 30) in two colors, including “national” winners. He bred a couple more bitches, which also sired winners in two other countries, and continued to produce champions. And today we see his children from the last litters in Canada, Europe and the USA. If you are wondering what kind of male this is, it is Ch. Sundust Sir Percival. We are very grateful to his breeder who sent him to us. I think she understood that we needed just such a dog, and hoped that we would choose him from the two males, although it was a big risk. Just think where we could have ended up if we hadn’t kept this dog. The other male was beautiful and of our breeding, and we were very proud of him, but I think we made the right choice. As you watch the puppies frolic and dream about the future, think about the standard, and then take another look at the puppies. Which one will you choose?

Bill Mixon Translation by Petrova I. N. from The Cocker Spaniel Leader magazine